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Kinamayan (Innovation by Patis Tesoro) (b)

LOCAL NAME:

Kinamayan (Innovation by Patis Tesoro) (b)

ENGLISH NAME:

Sample textile

DESCRIPTION:

Abra, Tinguian, Itneg: Kinamayan (Innovation by Patis Tesoro)
A plain-woven sample textile with a striped design in blue, orange, and white, featuring traditional Tinguian embroidery motifs. The indigo stripes are composed of black and blue threads, while the orange stripes are made from red warp threads and white weft threads.

COMMONLY USED BY/IN:

Abra, Tinguian, Itneg

MATERIAL COMPOSITION:

Cotton threads, Dye

ITEM CONSTRUCTION:

Plain weave, Embroidery, Stitching

DIMENSIONS:

Length
82 cm

Width
54.5 cm

Fringes
2 cm

ACQUISITION YEAR:

2021

RESEARCH DATA:

There is a wide variety of textile weaving techniques applied by Tinguian weavers of Abra that produce both traditional and contemporary designs. Employing traditional techniques while producing innovative textiles opens up many possibilities and could benefit the local textile weaving industry. Patis Tesoro, a designer, local fashion industry icon, and proponent of the Katutubong Filipino Foundation, Inc., aims to continue, revive, and reintroduce textile weaving traditions. She has designed and innovated many textiles and motifs from different weaving communities in the Cordillera. One of her focused weaving traditions is that of the Tinguian, where she applied traditional designs and techniques to create new combinations of patterns and produce innovative designs. This textile from the collection is an example of such innovation, featuring a striking striped design produced using the plain weaving technique. Additionally, the design incorporates the traditional kinammayan embroidery technique of Tinguian embroiderers. Traditionally, kinammayan is an indigo wrap-around skirt with a diamond-twill woven background that almost appears textured, embellished with embroideries of botanical, reptilian, and anthropomorphic motifs (Pastor-Roces, 1991). This particular sample textile is plain-woven and features the sinan-tokak, or frog-like motif, which is one of the most common embroidery motifs found on traditional Tinguian skirts and other textile items. Another embroidery motif represents a deconstruction or modification of the traditional kuko-palay (fingernails and rice stalks) or sinan-ramay (finger-like) motifs, typically used in textile borders and joineries. Additionally, the asterisk-shaped embroidery motifs between the sinan-tokak are identified as flower-like motifs known as sinan-sabong.

REFERENCES:

Pastor-Roces, M. (1991). Sinaunang Habi: Philippine Ancestral Weave. Nikki Books.

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