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Umpak ka bayi/Ompak ka bayi (a)

LOCAL NAME:

Umpak ka bayi/Ompak ka bayi (a)

ENGLISH NAME:

Female Upper Garment

DESCRIPTION:

Bagobo, Davao: Umpak ka bayi/Ompak ka bayi
A Bagobo female upper garment adorned with sequins, decorative beadwork, and appliquéd cloth

COMMONLY USED BY/IN:

Bagobo, Davao, Mindanao

MATERIAL COMPOSITION:

Commercial cotton, Cotton threads, Metallic threads, Metal sequins, Beads, Natural dye

ITEM CONSTRUCTION:

Weaving, Stitching, Beadwork, Embroidery, Appliqué

DIMENSIONS:

Length
51 cm

Width
42 cm

Sleeves
42.5 cm

ACQUISITION YEAR:

2021

RESEARCH DATA:

Traditionally, Bagobo women wore an appliquéd blouse (umpak ka bayi) paired with an abaca tube ikat skirt (Hamilton, 1998). The blouse is further embellished with multicolored glass beadwork, arranged in linear or geometric patterns across the cloth. In this blouse, the beads form tree or fern-like motifs that run along the waist and midrib sections of the garment. At the bodice is a prominent X-shaped embroidery in cotton and metallic threads.

Characteristic of most Bagobo garments, the neckline, sleeves, and waistline are bordered with bands of appliquéd cloth accented with red, yellow, and blue embroidery. According to Pastor-Roces (1991), these bands are referred to as tutuk, while the overlaid beadwork is called pang-o-lo-bayan (p. 99). The tutuk most often feature zigzag lines (tekko) and red cotton appliqué (tugur) (Pastor-Roces, 1991).

REFERENCES:

Hamilton, R.W. (1998). From the Rainbow’s Varied Hue. UCLA Fowler Museum of Cultural History.
Pastor-Roces, M. (1991). Sinaunang Habi: Philippine Ancestral Weave. Nikki Books.

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