Umpak
LOCAL NAME:
Umpak
ENGLISH NAME:
Female Upper Garment
DESCRIPTION:
Manobo, Agusan Province: Umpak
A female upper garment with bell-shaped sleeves, featuring a black cotton base cloth with floral patterns decorated with appliqué and sequins
COMMONLY USED BY/IN:
Manobo, Agusan Province, Mindanao
MATERIAL COMPOSITION:
Cotton threads, Thread, Natural dye, Metal sequins
ITEM CONSTRUCTION:
Weaving, Stitching, Dyeing, Embroidery, Appliqué
DIMENSIONS:
Length
30.5 cm
Width
43 cm
Sleeves
28.5 cm
ACQUISITION YEAR:
2021
RESEARCH DATA:
The Agusan Manobo reside in the mountains north of the Mandaya communities and are recorded to have learned weaving from their Mandaya neighbors (Hamilton, 1998). They preferred simple striped patterns over warp-ikat in hemp weaving, a design also reflected in their cotton garments, which typically feature embroidery (suyam) on plain woven base cloth. Upper garments (umpak) may have straight-cut or bell-shaped sleeves. This cotton example is embellished with appliqué and metallic sequins, with the strips of patterned appliqué cloth most likely sourced from the market.
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