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Kinamayan (Innovation by Patis Tesoro) (s)

LOCAL NAME:

Kinamayan (Innovation by Patis Tesoro) (s)

ENGLISH NAME:

Wrap-around skirt

DESCRIPTION:

Abra, Tinguian, and Itneg: Kinamayan
A two-paneled indigo checkered skirt adorned with embroidery motifs such as frogs, lizards, stars, and zigzags

COMMONLY USED BY/IN:

Abra, Tinguian, Itneg, Ilocos, Ilocano

MATERIAL COMPOSITION:

Cotton threads, Natural dye

ITEM CONSTRUCTION:

Plain weave, Brocade weave, Embroidery, Stitching, Beadwork, Dyeing

DIMENSIONS:

144 cm

Width
87.5 cm

ACQUISITION YEAR:

2021

RESEARCH DATA:

This textile from the collection is an innovation by Patis Tesoro, inspired by the traditional plaid textiles of Ilocos and the kinamayan textiles of Abra. The kinamayan textile is a wrap-around skirt that typically features embroidery motifs of frogs, human figures, and plants. The term "kinamayan" translates to "hand-made" or "handwoven," referring to the hand-embroidered designs that are a prominent feature of the skirt. The textile is traditionally used as a ritual item by a diviner or priestess (known as a manganito) in various Itneg or Tinguian ceremonies, typically those that involve appeasing their gods. In some cases, it is also used during the performance of the traditional dance called the tadek (Respicio, 1994). Aquino (2005) noted that the kinamayan is also traditionally employed during rituals and events such as the dawak, diyaman, and allap.

This particular innovative textile is a two-paneled wrap-around skirt, joined together by two white zigzag embroideries facing each other, which create a continuous diamond-like stitch. The panels themselves feature frog, lizard, and star motifs embroidered against a plaid background.

REFERENCES:

Aquino, M. (2005). Dynamics of Weaving and Development of an Itneg Community in Abra, Philippines. Unpublished PhD Dissertation. University of the Philippines Los Baños.


Respicio, N. (1994). The Rise and Fall of the Textile Weaving Tradition of the Itnegs of Northern Luzon, Philippines. Art Studies Journal, 1(3), 21-29. https://artstudiesjournal.upd.edu.ph/wp-content/uploads/2022/12/VOL1_ISS1_ARTICLE-3_RESPICIO-NORMA_THE-RISE-AND-FALL-OF-TEXTILE-WEAVING-TRADITION.pdf

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