RESEARCH DATA:

This textile from the collection is an innovation by textile revivalist Patis Tesoro of the traditional kinamayan wrap-around skirt. The background is woven in plain weave, instead of the customary diamond twill weave (Pastor-Roces, 1991). Its prominent design features thick, red and white lengthwise bands, two of which have braided threads stitched on them that extend beyond the side edges to form the side tassels of the skirt. These bands are interspersed with white embroidery designs of stars (sinan-bituen), rice stalks (palay), and lizards. It should be noted that the term “kinamayan” translates to "hand-made" or "handwoven," alluding to the hand-embroidered designs on the skirt. The kinamayan is used in various rituals, such as the dawak, diyaman, and allap (Aquino, 2005), which are performed to appease and honor their gods, often in relation to farming and agricultural activities, and to serve protection and healing functions (Respicio, 2000). It is particularly used by a diviner or priestess called manganito, and is often followed by tadek, the traditional Itneg or Tinguian dance (Respicio, 1994).