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Kinamayan (Innovation by Patis Tesoro) (o)

LOCAL NAME:

Kinamayan (Innovation by Patis Tesoro) (o)

ENGLISH NAME:

Wrap-around skirt

DESCRIPTION:

Abra, Tinguian, and Itneg: Kinamayan
A two-paneled skirt with an indigo background, featuring horizontal red and white bands embellished with multiple white embroideries

COMMONLY USED BY/IN:

Abra, Tinguian, Itneg

MATERIAL COMPOSITION:

Cotton threads, Natural dye

ITEM CONSTRUCTION:

Plain weave, Embroidery, Stitching, Dyeing

DIMENSIONS:

Length
124.5 cm

Width
84 cm

Tassels
6.5 cm

ACQUISITION YEAR:

2021

RESEARCH DATA:

The kinamayan is distinguished by its indigo background woven in diamond twill, decorated lengthwise with red and white bands and white embroidery across the fabric. In this inspired variation of the kinamayan by textile revivalist Patis Tesoro, the traditional features are retained, but the fabric is woven in plain weave instead of diamond twill. An interesting feature is the braided thread stitched on top of each red band, which extends beyond the edges of the skirt to form tassels. Furthermore, the embroidered designs include stars (sinan-bituen), rice stalks (palay), and lizards. The term kinamayan translates to "hand-made" or "handwoven," referring to the hand-embroidered details of the garment. Traditionally, the kinamayan is used in rituals such as dawak, diyaman, and allap, ceremonies conducted to honor and appease deities, often linked to agricultural practices, protection, and healing (Aquino, 2005; Respicio, 2000). Typically worn by a diviner or priestess called manganito, it is often accompanied by tadek, the ceremonial dance of the Itneg or Tinguian people (Respicio, 1994).

REFERENCES:

Aquino, M. (2005). Dynamics of Weaving and Development of an Itneg Community in Abra, Philippines. Unpublished PhD Dissertation. University of the Philippines Los Baños.


Pastor-Roces, M. (1991). Sinaunang Habi: Philippine Ancestral Weave. Nikki Books.
Respicio, N. (1994). The Rise and Fall of the Textile Weaving Tradition of the Itnegs of Northern Luzon, Philippines. Art Studies Journal, 1(3), 21-29. https://artstudiesjournal.upd.edu.ph/wp-content/uploads/2022/12/VOL1_ISS1_ARTICLE-3_RESPICIO-NORMA_THE-RISE-AND-FALL-OF-TEXTILE-WEAVING-TRADITION.pdf

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