RESEARCH DATA:

The kinamayan is identified by an indigo background in a diamond twill weave, accentuated by lengthwise white and red bands and intricate embroidery across the fabric. An innovation by textile revivalist Patis Tesoro, the traditional elements are preserved, though the fabric is woven in plain weave rather than diamond twill. An interesting element is the braided thread stitched on top of each red band, which extends beyond the edges of the skirt to form tassels. Embroidered designs include stars (sinan-bituen), rice stalks (palay), and lizards. The name kinamayan means "hand-made" or "handwoven," referring to the hand-embroidered details of the skirt and originating from the root word kamay ("hand"). Traditionally, the kinamayan is utilized in rituals like dawak, diyaman, and allap, ceremonies performed to honor and appease deities and often associated with agriculture, protection, and healing (Aquino, 2005; Respicio, 2000). Typically worn by a diviner or priestess, known as manganito, the garment is also commonly accompanied by tadek, the ceremonial dance of the Itneg or Tinguian people (Respicio, 1994).