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Kinamayan (Innovation by Patis Tesoro) (m)

LOCAL NAME:

Kinamayan (Innovation by Patis Tesoro) (m)

ENGLISH NAME:

Wrap-around skirt

DESCRIPTION:

Abra, Tinguian, and Itneg: Kinamayan
A two-paneled skirt with an indigo background, featuring horizontal red and white bands embellished with multiple white embroideries

COMMONLY USED BY/IN:

Abra, Tinguian, Itneg

MATERIAL COMPOSITION:

Cotton threads, Natural dye

ITEM CONSTRUCTION:

Plain weave, Embroidery, Stitching, Dyeing

DIMENSIONS:

Length
122 cm

Width
85 cm

Tassels
5.5 cm

ACQUISITION YEAR:

2021

RESEARCH DATA:

Kinamayan is characterized by a diamond twill-woven indigo background, lengthwise white and red bands, and multiple embroideries embellishing the cloth. An innovation by textile revivalist Patis Tesoro, this skirt retains all other characteristics except that it is in plain weave. A striking element is a braided thread on top of each red band, which extends beyond the side edges of the skirt to create tassels. Embroidery designs include stars (sinan-bituen), rice stalks (palay), and lizards. The term “kinamayan” translates to "hand-made" or "handwoven," alluding to the hand-embroidered elements of the skirt. Traditionally, the kinamayan is utilized during various rituals, such as the dawak, diyaman, and allap, which are performed to honor and appease deities; often linked to their farming practices, protection, and healing functions (Aquino, 2005; Respicio, 2000). It is typically worn by a diviner or priestess (locally known as manganito), and is often accompanied by tadek, the traditional Itneg or Tinguian dance (Respicio, 1994).

REFERENCES:

Aquino, M. (2005). Dynamics of Weaving and Development of an Itneg Community in Abra, Philippines. Unpublished PhD Dissertation. University of the Philippines Los Baños.

Pastor-Roces, M. (1991). Sinaunang Habi: Philippine Ancestral Weave. Nikki Books.
Respicio, N. (1994). The Rise and Fall of the Textile Weaving Tradition of the Itnegs of Northern Luzon, Philippines. Art Studies Journal, 1(3), 21-29. https://artstudiesjournal.upd.edu.ph/wp-content/uploads/2022/12/VOL1_ISS1_ARTICLE-3_RESPICIO-NORMA_THE-RISE-AND-FALL-OF-TEXTILE-WEAVING-TRADITION.pdf

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