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Kinamayan (Innovation by Patis Tesoro) (k)

LOCAL NAME:

Kinamayan (Innovation by Patis Tesoro) (k)

ENGLISH NAME:

Wrap-around skirt

DESCRIPTION:

Abra, Tinguian, and Itneg: Kinamayan
three-paneled indigo skirt with violet side edges and red borders along the top and bottom. Cream and orange embroidery embellishes the cloth from the borders to the joineries.

COMMONLY USED BY/IN:

Abra, Tinguian, Itneg

MATERIAL COMPOSITION:

Cotton threads, Natural dye

ITEM CONSTRUCTION:

Plain weave, Embroidery, Stitching, Dyeing

DIMENSIONS:

Length
140 cm

Width
65.5 cm

ACQUISITION YEAR:

2021

RESEARCH DATA:

An inspired variation of the kinamayan by Patis Tesoro, this wrap-around skirt features an indigo background in plain weave rather than the traditional diamond twill (Pastor-Roces, 1991). The side edges are violet, adding a subtle contrast to the main background. Like most kinamayan skirts, it includes intricate embroidery: human figures (sinan-tao), mountains, and fingernails (sinan-kuko). The latter, combined with mountain motifs, decorates the borders and joineries of the cloth, which can be attributed to the agricultural context of rituals involving the kinamayan. One such example is the allap, an after-harvest ritual conducted to express gratitude to their gods and ancestors for a plentiful harvest (Aquino, 2005). It should be noted that the term kinamayan translates to "hand-made" or "handwoven," alluding to the skirt's hand-embroidered designs derived from the root word kamay (meaning "hand").

REFERENCES:

Aquino, M. (2005). Dynamics of Weaving and Development of an Itneg Community in Abra, Philippines. Unpublished PhD Dissertation. University of the Philippines Los Baños.


Pastor-Roces, M. (1991). Sinaunang Habi: Philippine Ancestral Weave. Nikki Books.
Respicio, N. (1994). The Rise and Fall of the Textile Weaving Tradition of the Itnegs of Northern Luzon, Philippines. Art Studies Journal, 1(3), 21-29. https://artstudiesjournal.upd.edu.ph/wp-content/uploads/2022/12/VOL1_ISS1_ARTICLE-3_RESPICIO-NORMA_THE-RISE-AND-FALL-OF-TEXTILE-WEAVING-TRADITION.pdf

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