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Kinamayan (Innovation by Patis Tesoro) (l)

LOCAL NAME:

Kinamayan (Innovation by Patis Tesoro) (l)

ENGLISH NAME:

Wrap-around skirt

DESCRIPTION:

Abra, Tinguian, and Itneg: Kinamayan
A two-paneled skirt with an indigo background, featuring horizontal red and white bands embellished with multiple white embroideries

COMMONLY USED BY/IN:

Abra, Tinguian, Itneg

MATERIAL COMPOSITION:

Cotton threads, Natural dye

ITEM CONSTRUCTION:

Plain weave, Embroidery, Stitching, Dyeing

DIMENSIONS:

Length
110 cm

Width
82.3 cm

Tassels
4 cm

ACQUISITION YEAR:

2021

RESEARCH DATA:

This textile from the collection is a reinterpretation of the traditional kinamayan wrap-around skirt, designed by textile revivalist Patis Tesoro. Unlike the typical diamond twill weave, this version features a plain weave background (Pastor-Roces, 1991). Among its striking designs are red and white lengthwise bands, two of which are adorned with braided threads that extend beyond the side edges to create tassels. These bands are interspersed with white embroidery depicting stars (sinan-bituen), rice stalks (palay), and lizards. The term “kinamayan” translates to "hand-made" or "handwoven," alluding to the hand-embroidered elements of the skirt. Traditionally, the kinamayan is used during various rituals, such as the dawak, diyaman, and allap, which are performed to honor and appease deities; often linked to agricultural practices, protection, and healing functions (Aquino, 2005; Respicio, 2000). It is typically worn by a diviner or priestess, known as manganito, and is often followed by the tadek, the traditional Itneg or Tinguian dance (Respicio, 1994).

REFERENCES:

Aquino, M. (2005). Dynamics of Weaving and Development of an Itneg Community in Abra, Philippines. Unpublished PhD Dissertation. University of the Philippines Los Baños.


Pastor-Roces, M. (1991). Sinaunang Habi: Philippine Ancestral Weave. Nikki Books.
Respicio, N. (1994). The Rise and Fall of the Textile Weaving Tradition of the Itnegs of Northern Luzon, Philippines. Art Studies Journal, 1(3), 21-29. https://artstudiesjournal.upd.edu.ph/wp-content/uploads/2022/12/VOL1_ISS1_ARTICLE-3_RESPICIO-NORMA_THE-RISE-AND-FALL-OF-TEXTILE-WEAVING-TRADITION.pdf

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