RESEARCH DATA:

This loincloth, or baal, from the collection is a textile innovation created by Patis Tesoro. It features a binakol design that runs from warp end to warp end. The binakol design resembles a cat’s paw print, locally referred to as sinan-dappak kusa (Tinguian) or sinan-paddak ti pusa (Iloco), which is commonly woven into traditional blankets. Additionally, the embroidery on this textile draws inspiration from the traditional designs and motifs of the Tingguian or Itneg people of Abra, incorporating lizard-like and zigzag motifs typically found on wrap-around skirts.
The binakol, also known as binakul, binakel, or binakael, means "twill" in the Iloko language and is a variation of inabel (weave) native to the Ilocano and Itneg peoples. Weaving the binakol requires specific techniques using two-colored weft yarns, typically black and white, among others (Respicio, 2015). The designs consist of alternating negative (black) and positive (white) squares and rectangles of varying sizes (Respicio, 2015). The geometric patterns create an illusionary effect, often perceived as psychedelic optical illusions. These designs are intentionally woven to confuse, repel, or distract evil spirits (Salvador-Amores, 2019).