RESEARCH DATA:

This textile from the collection is a variant of the anigtan consisting only of the X-like motifs (inal-alsong) instead of the usual X and diamond-like patterns that are displayed alternately. These motifs are non-representational forms of “rice” and “rice mortar” (Respicio, 2000) which are made through the use of the said geometric shapes. The anigtan is a special belt or head cloth used by the chiefs (panglakayen) and the braves (mamaingel) during their ritual ceremonies. This is in contrast to the ordinary balikes or belts used in their everyday life (San Agustin, 2007). Woven using the supplementary weft technique called the pinilian, the designs appear embossed on the surface of the cloth which is made using an act of preselecting warp threads before the weaving process (Pastor-Roces, 1991). Commonly, the anigtan is woven in silk in combination with cotton. Sometimes, only cotton is used.

REFERENCES:

Pastor-Roces, M. (1991). Sinaunang Habi: Philippine Ancestral Weave. Nikki Books.

Respicio, N. (2000). The Dynamics of Textiles Across Cultures in Northern Luzon, Philippines. Unpublished PhD Dissertation. University of the Philippines Diliman.

San Agustin, L. (2007). The Tinguians (Itnegs) In The Traditional Attires of the Igorot Tribes (pp. 129-143). Central Book Supply, Inc.