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Pinilian (Sinan-sabong ti parya)

LOCAL NAME:

Pinilian (Sinan-sabong ti parya)

ENGLISH NAME:

Blanket with bitter gourd flower-like design

DESCRIPTION:

Abra, Tinguian, & Itneg: Pinilian (Sinan-sabong ti parya)
A pinilian blanket with red-black stripes, flower-like motif, and white traditional stylized joineries that connects the three panels of identical woven textiles.

COMMONLY USED BY/IN:

Abra, Tinguian, Itneg

MATERIAL COMPOSITION:

Cotton threads, Natural dye

ITEM CONSTRUCTION:

Brocade weave, Embroidery, Stitching, Dyeing

DIMENSIONS:

Length
209 cm

Width
125.5 cm

ACQUISITION YEAR:

2021

RESEARCH DATA:

The pinilian textile from Abra, used by the Tinguian or Itneg people as blankets, features elaborate designs with anthropomorphic, botanical, celestial, geometric, and zoomorphic motifs. Pastor-Roces (1991) described pinilian as the process of translating a weaver's envisioned design into two-dimensional motifs on the textile. Pinilian or brocade weaving, moreover, produces designs with embroidery-like motifs and patterns that float in relief on the cloth’s surface (Pastor-Roces, 1991). The term "pinilian" comes from "pili," meaning "choose" or "select," and refers to a supplementary weft technique in weaving.

Pinilian textiles often feature motifs inspired by flora, showcasing the rich plant diversity found in the Ilocos and Northern Cordillera regions. This particular textile is a variation of the sinan-sabong, representing flower-like designs, specifically depicting the bitter gourd flower (Momordica charantia), locally known as parya, a plant commonly found in these areas.

Similar to other Abra blankets, this pinilian blanket consists of panels of woven textiles connected using a traditional stylized stitching method. The stitching motif used, known as the kuko (fingernails) joinery according to Respicio (2015), also identified as the gayaman (centipede) motif, is also employed as a border for the blanket.

REFERENCES:

Pastor-Roces, M. (1991). Sinaunang habi: Philippine ancestral weave. Nikki Books.

Respicio, N. A. (2015). Design techniques and weaving centers. In Inabel: Philippine textile from the Ilocos Region, 48-143. Artpostasia.

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