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Pinilian (Sinan-bituwon) (b)

LOCAL NAME:

Pinilian (Sinan-bituwon) (b)

ENGLISH NAME:

Blanket with star design

DESCRIPTION:

Abra, Tinguian, & Itneg: Pinilian (Sinan-bituwon)
A three-paneled brocade blanket with white star-like motifs on a red and blue striped background. Yellow stylized stitching joins the side panels to the middle panel.

COMMONLY USED BY/IN:

Abra, Tinguian, Itneg

MATERIAL COMPOSITION:

Cotton threads, Natural dye

ITEM CONSTRUCTION:

Brocade weave, Embroidery, Stitching, Dyeing

DIMENSIONS:

Length
176 cm

Width
111 cm

ACQUISITION YEAR:

2021

RESEARCH DATA:

The pinilian textile from Abra is one of the most notable woven textiles in the Cordillera region. The Itneg mainly use pinilian textiles to make blankets called ules or owes. These blankets are made by stitching together three woven panels with detailed designs that include anthropomorphic, botanical, celestial, geometric, and zoomorphic motifs.

Pastor-Roces (1991) explains that pinilian is the process of turning a weaver's design ideas into two-dimensional patterns on textile. This weaving technique creates embroidery-like patterns that float in relief on the cloth’s surface (Pastor-Roces, 1991). The word pinilian comes from pili, meaning "choose" or "select," and refers to the special weaving technique used.

This textile from the collection was woven using continuous supplementary weft. The technique employs a pili or sticks to select specific warp threads, which the thicker weft yarn, connected to a double-horn-edged shuttle known as sikkuan, then interlocks with (Respicio, 2015) to form the desired motif. The motifs woven on the textile represent the stars, or bituwon. However, Cole (1992) illustrated a similar form and identified it as a motif that represents the “weaving on a Spanish bed or chair seat” (p. 431). The panels are joined by stylized stitches called kuko-palay (fingernails and rice stalks) joinery, also known as sinan-ramay (finger-like) joinery. Similar motif is also identified as kawa-kawa (Iloco) or spider (Respicio, 2015) or sinan-akawa (Tinguian) (spider-like) joinery. Moreover, the textile’s borders are also embroidered with yellow threads, resembling the half figure of the kuko (fingernails) motif.

REFERENCES:

Cole, F.C. (1922). The Tinguian: social, religious, and economic life of a Philippine tribe. Publications of the Field Museum of natural history. Anthropological series, 14(2), 231–493.

Pastor-Roces, M. (1991). Sinaunang Habi: Philippine Ancestral Weave. Nikki Books.

Respicio, N. A. (2015). Design techniques and weaving centers. In Inabel: Philippine textile from the Ilocos Region, 48-143. Artpostasia.

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