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Pinilian (Sinan-bayabas) (e)

LOCAL NAME:

Pinilian (Sinan-bayabas) (e)

ENGLISH NAME:

Blanket with guava leaves-like design

DESCRIPTION:

Abra, Tinguian, & Itneg: Pinilian (Sinan-bayabas)
A three-paneled blanket featuring guava leaves and skeiner-like motifs on a plaid red-and-black background

COMMONLY USED BY/IN:

Abra, Tinguian, Ineg

MATERIAL COMPOSITION:

Cotton threads, Natural dye

ITEM CONSTRUCTION:

Brocade weave, Embroidery, Stitching, Dyeing

DIMENSIONS:

Length
180 cm

Width
120 cm

ACQUISITION YEAR:

2016

RESEARCH DATA:

Pinilian blankets are one of the most notable woven textiles in the Cordillera region. The Tinguian or Itneg mainly use pinilian textiles to make blankets called ules or owes. These blankets are made by stitching together two or more woven panels with detailed designs that include anthropomorphic, botanical, celestial, geometric, and zoomorphic motifs. Pastor-Roces (1991) explains that pinilian is the process of turning a weaver's design ideas into two-dimensional patterns on textile. This weaving technique creates embroidery-like patterns that float in relief on the cloth’s surface (Pastor-Roces, 1991). The word "pinilian" comes from "pili," meaning "choose" or "select," and refers to the special weaving technique used.

The guava design, locally known as sinan-bayabas, is a prominent motif in Abra textiles. According to Cooper-Cole (1922), the Itneg utilized guava (Psidium guajava L.) as a source of food and medicine. The shrub has been so deeply integrated into their culture that they were inspired to incorporate the forms of its leaves into their woven textiles. This motif is often set against a plaid background and accompanied by other designs. In this textile, thread winder-like motifs in supplementary weft appear beside the guava leaves, while pine-apple shaped embroidery was used to join the panels (Pastor-Roces & Philippines Intramuros Administration Museum Division, 1985). The thread winder motifs, locally known as armatika, and sometimes referred to as “skeiners”, are rendered as an X-shaped form with four diamonds filling the spaces at the top, bottom, and sides. It visually resembles the structure of a bobbin winder made of wood and bamboo sticks as described by Cole (1922).

REFERENCES:

Cole, F.C. (1922). The Tinguian: social, religious, and economic life of a Philippine tribe. Publications of the Field Museum of natural history. Anthropological series, 14(2), 231–493. Http://www.jstor.org/stable/29782148

Pastor-Roces, M. (1991). Sinaunang Habi: Philippine Ancestral Weave. Nikki Books.
Pastor-Roces, M., & Philippines Intramuros Administration Museum Division. (1985). Habi: The allure of Philippine weaves. Vera-Reyes, Inc.

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