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Pinilian (Sinan-agatul) (b)

LOCAL NAME:

Pinilian (Sinan-agatul) (b)

ENGLISH NAME:

Blanket with crab-like design

DESCRIPTION:

Abra, Tinguian, Itneg: Pinilian (Sinan-agatul)
A three-paneled blanket with a red-and-indigo plaid base, featuring crab and skeiner-like motifs

COMMONLY USED BY/IN:

Abra, Tinguian, Itneg

MATERIAL COMPOSITION:

Cotton threads, Natural dye

ITEM CONSTRUCTION:

Brocade weave, Embroidery, Stitching, Dyeing

DIMENSIONS:

Length
192 cm

Width
124 cm

ACQUISITION YEAR:

2016

RESEARCH DATA:

Pinilian blankets are one of the most notable woven textiles in the Cordillera region. The Tinguian or Itneg mainly use pinilian textiles to make blankets called ules or owes. These blankets are made by stitching together two or more woven panels with detailed designs that include anthropomorphic, botanical, celestial, geometric, and zoomorphic motifs. Pastor-Roces (1991) explains that pinilian is the process of turning a weaver's design ideas into two-dimensional patterns on textile. This weaving technique creates embroidery-like patterns that float in relief on the cloth’s surface (Pastor-Roces, 1991). The word "pinilian" comes from "pili," meaning "choose" or "select," and refers to the special weaving technique used.

This three-paneled blanket is woven with alternating crab-like motifs (sinan-agatul) and thread winder motifs (armatika). As Respicio (1991) observes, the frequent representation of riverine creatures such as crabs, fishes, frogs, and turtles attests to the prominence of the great rivers that shape the Itneg landscape. Yet despite their abundance, these animals are marked as “taboo” in certain ritual contexts, since they are considered “auspicious” beings whose consumption is prohibited (p. 85). Complementing the crab motifs are the armatika, or thread winder motifs, sometimes referred to as “skeiners”. This figure is rendered as an X-shaped form with four diamonds filling the spaces at the top, bottom, and sides, visually resembling the structure of a bobbin winder made of wood and bamboo sticks as described by Cole (1922). This motif alludes to the indispensable weaving implements that sustain the textile traditions of the community.

REFERENCES:

Cole, F.C. (1922). The Tinguian: social, religious, and economic life of a Philippine tribe. Publications of the Field Museum of natural history. Anthropological series, 14(2), 231–493.

Pastor-Roces, M. (1991). Sinaunang habi: Philippine ancestral weave. Manila: Nikki Books.

Respicio, N. A. (2015). Design techniques and weaving centers. In Inabel: Philippine textile from the Ilocos Region, 48-143. Artpostasia.

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