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Pinilian (Sinan-agatul) (a)

LOCAL NAME:

Pinilian (Sinan-agatul) (a)

ENGLISH NAME:

Blanket with crab-like design

DESCRIPTION:

Abra, Tinguian, & Itneg: Pinilian (sinan-agatul)
A three-paneled brocade-woven textile with indigo and red stripes, small diamond and crab-like motifs, and white embroidered joinery and borders.

COMMONLY USED BY/IN:

Abra, Tinguian, Itneg

MATERIAL COMPOSITION:

Cotton threads, Natural dye

ITEM CONSTRUCTION:

Brocade weave, Embroidery, Stitching, Dyeing

DIMENSIONS:

Length
200 cm

Width
119.5 cm

ACQUISITION YEAR:

2021

RESEARCH DATA:

This blanket is handwoven using pinilian, a supplementary weft technique that employs pili (sticks) to select specific warp threads. A thicker weft yarn, inserted with a double-horn-edged shuttle called sikkuan, interlocks with the selected threads to form the motif (Respicio, 2015). This textile specifically utilizes the continuous supplementary weft technique, a variant method in weaving pinilian designs.

The central motif featured in this blanket is the crab-like design, locally known as sinan-agatul. Notably, Cole (1922) illustrated a similar motif, which the Itneg identified as representing a crab. The panels of this blanket are joined using a relatively simple joinery compared to those found in other pinilian blankets. Meanwhile, the blanket’s borders are embroidered with white threads that resemble a half-figure version of the kuko (fingernail) motif.

REFERENCES:

Cole, F.C. (1922). The Tinguian: social, religious, and economic life of a Philippine tribe. Publications of the Field Museum of natural history. Anthropological series, 14(2), 231–493.

Respicio, N. A. (2015). Design techniques and weaving centers. In Inabel: Philippine textile from the Ilocos Region, 48-143. Artpostasia.

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