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Kinamayan (f)

LOCAL NAME:

Kinamayan (f)

ENGLISH NAME:

Ritual cloth

DESCRIPTION:

Abra, Itneg, Tinguian: Kinamayan
A three-paneled ritual cloth in deep indigo, embellished with red and blue embroidery

COMMONLY USED BY/IN:

Abra, Itneg, Tinguian

MATERIAL COMPOSITION:

Cotton threads, Natural dye

ITEM CONSTRUCTION:

Weaving, Embroidery, Dyeing

DIMENSIONS:

Length
108 cm

Width
76 cm

ACQUISITION YEAR:

2011

RESEARCH DATA:

This kinamayan from the collection is a ritual cloth, woven with a deep indigo background and embellished with intricate blue and red embroidery. Historically, kinamayan skirts in a darker shade of indigo were considered more valuable, as achieving this rich color required more dye resources, particularly tayum (indigo) (Respicio, 2000). The cloth displays a single design of embroidery: hands and fingernails (kuko-ramay), which are located on the seams and borders of the cloth.

These embroideries capture the essence of kinamayan, whose name was derived from the root word kamay (meaning "hand") and translates to "hand-made" or "handwoven," alluding to the hand-embroidered designs that are prominent on the skirt. Traditionally, the kinammayan is used as a ritual paraphernalia by a diviner or priestess (called a manganito) in various Itneg or Tinguian rites, which involve appeasing their gods and, in some cases, performing their traditional dance called the tadek (Respicio, 1994). According to Aquino (2005), these rituals or occasions where the kinamayan is traditionally used include the dawak, diyaman, and allap (p. 119).

REFERENCES:

Aquino, M. (2005). Dynamics of Weaving and Development of an Itneg Community in Abra, Philippines. Unpublished PhD Dissertation. University of the Philippines Los Baños.

Respicio, N. (1994). The Rise and Fall of the Textile Weaving Tradition of the Itnegs of Northern Luzon, Philippines. Art Studies Journal, 1(3), 21-29. https://artstudiesjournal.upd.edu.ph/wp-content/uploads/2022/12/VOL1_ISS1_ARTICLE-3_RESPICIO-NORMA_THE-RISE-AND-FALL-OF-TEXTILE-WEAVING-TRADITION.pdf

Respicio, N. (2000). The Dynamics of Textiles Across Cultures in Northern Luzon, Philippines. Unpublished PhD Dissertation. University of the Philippines Diliman.

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