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Binakol (Rinitrit concha-concha) (a)

LOCAL NAME:

Binakol (Rinitrit concha-concha) (a)

ENGLISH NAME:

Tattered capiz window design

DESCRIPTION:

Abra, Tinguian, Itneg, Ilocos, & Ilocano: Binakol (Rinitrit concha-concha)
A three-paneled woven textile with capiz window-inspired design on a plaid background. Traditional embroidery using yellow threads was used to join the panels and border the blanket.

COMMONLY USED BY/IN:

Abra, Tinguian, Itneg, Ilocos, Ilocano

MATERIAL COMPOSITION:

Cotton threads, Natural dye

ITEM CONSTRUCTION:

Double-toned basket weave, Embroidery, Stitching, Dyeing

DIMENSIONS:

Length
191 cm

Width
120 cm

ACQUISITION YEAR:

2021

RESEARCH DATA:

Binakol, also known as binakul, binakel, or binakael, means "twill" in Iloko language and is a variation of inabel (weave) native to the Ilocano and the Itneg. Pastor-Roces (1991), on the other hand, stated that the word binakol means “made spherical” (p.77) describing the shape and appearance of the motif or design. Although binakol textiles are created using the plain weave technique, they stand out among plain woven textiles due to the intricate techniques used and the distinctiveness of the produced textile itself. Weaving the binakol requires specific techniques using two-colored weft yarns that are typically black and white, green and white, blue and white, and sometimes red and white (Respicio, 2015). The designs consist of alternating negative (black, green, blue, red) and positive (white) squares and rectangles of varying sizes (Respicio, 2015). The geometric patterns created have an illusionary effect and are often seen as psychedelic optical illusions. These designs are intentionally woven to confuse or repel and distract evil spirits (Salvador-Amores, 2019).

Common traditional binakol designs include whirlwinds/whirlpools, stars, fans, cat's paw prints, and Filipino capiz shell windows. This three-paneled binakol from the collection is a variation of the capiz shell window design called rinitrit concha-concha, meaning tattered capiz window design (Respicio, 2015). Like other Abra blankets, this binakol blanket features panels of woven textiles joined by a traditional stylized stitching method. The stitching motif used on this blanket is called kuko-palay (fingernails and rice stalks) joinery, also known as sinan-ramay (finger-like) joinery.

REFERENCES:

Pastor-Roces, M. (1991). Sinaunang habi: Philippine ancestral weave. Manila: Nikki Books.

Respicio, N. A. (2014). The design techniques. In Journey of a thousand shuttles: The Philippine Weave (pp. 70-73). Manila:The National Commission for Culture and the Arts, pp. 70-73.

Respicio, N. A. (2015). Design techniques and weaving centers. In Inabel: Philippine textile from the Ilocos Region, 48-143. Artpostasia.

Salvador-Amores, A. (2019). Anthropological Analysis of Itneg Textiles. In Anthropological analysis, mathematical symmetry and technical characterization of Cordillera Textiles. Corditex Research Report, UP Baguio 2016-2019.

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