Binakol (Kusikus/Alipugpug) (e)
LOCAL NAME:
Binakol (Kusikus/Alipugpug) (e)
ENGLISH NAME:
Whirlpool/Whirlwind design
DESCRIPTION:
Abra, Tinguian, Itneg, Ilocos, & Ilocano: Binakol (Kusikus/Alipugpug)
A three-paneled binakol blanket in colors black and white with red plaid patterns running along its length and width
COMMONLY USED BY/IN:
Abra, Tinguian, Itneg, Ilocos, Ilocano
MATERIAL COMPOSITION:
Cotton threads, Natural dye
ITEM CONSTRUCTION:
Double-toned basket weave, Embroidery, Stitching, Dyeing
DIMENSIONS:
Length
181.5 cm
Width
147.5 cm
ACQUISITION YEAR:
2021
RESEARCH DATA:
This textile from the collection features repeating patterns of binakol or binakul weaves throughout the cloth. The term binakol may refer to a spherical patterned cloth (Pastor-Roces, 1991) and a variant of the inabel, handwoven textiles of the Ilocanos that means “twill.” It is created using the plain weave technique, with warp and weft yarns colored in negative and positive hues. The interlocking of the warp and weft produces a mesmerizing pattern of graduated rectangles that emanate from a center and appear like an optical illusion that throbs when seen by the viewer (Respicio, 2014). This pattern is said to resemble whirlwinds or whirlpools meant to ward off and confuse evil spirits because of its dizzying effect (Salvador-Amores, 2019). It is also known as the kusikus or alipugpug, which has references to the wind god, who requires appeasement by the Itneg. The binakol designs are also shared by the Itneg’s neighboring Ilocano weavers. The panels of this blanket are joined by continuous white diamond embroidery. The borders are also embroidered using the sinan-kuko, or fingernail-like motif, to secure its edges.
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