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Binakol (Kusikus/Alipugpug) (e)

LOCAL NAME:

Binakol (Kusikus/Alipugpug) (e)

ENGLISH NAME:

Whirlpool/Whirlwind design

DESCRIPTION:

Abra, Tinguian, Itneg, Ilocos, & Ilocano: Binakol (Kusikus/Alipugpug)
A three-paneled binakol blanket in colors black and white with red plaid patterns running along its length and width

COMMONLY USED BY/IN:

Abra, Tinguian, Itneg, Ilocos, Ilocano

MATERIAL COMPOSITION:

Cotton threads, Natural dye

ITEM CONSTRUCTION:

Double-toned basket weave, Embroidery, Stitching, Dyeing

DIMENSIONS:

Length
181.5 cm

Width
147.5 cm

ACQUISITION YEAR:

2021

RESEARCH DATA:

This textile from the collection features repeating patterns of binakol or binakul weaves throughout the cloth. The term binakol may refer to a spherical patterned cloth (Pastor-Roces, 1991) and a variant of the inabel, handwoven textiles of the Ilocanos that means “twill.” It is created using the plain weave technique, with warp and weft yarns colored in negative and positive hues. The interlocking of the warp and weft produces a mesmerizing pattern of graduated rectangles that emanate from a center and appear like an optical illusion that throbs when seen by the viewer (Respicio, 2014). This pattern is said to resemble whirlwinds or whirlpools meant to ward off and confuse evil spirits because of its dizzying effect (Salvador-Amores, 2019). It is also known as the kusikus or alipugpug, which has references to the wind god, who requires appeasement by the Itneg. The binakol designs are also shared by the Itneg’s neighboring Ilocano weavers. The panels of this blanket are joined by continuous white diamond embroidery. The borders are also embroidered using the sinan-kuko, or fingernail-like motif, to secure its edges.

REFERENCES:

Pastor-Roces, M. (1991). Sinaunang habi: Philippine ancestral weave. Nikki Books.

Respicio, N. A. (2014). The design techniques. In Journey of a thousand shuttles: The Philippine Weave (pp. 70-73). The National Commission for Culture and the Arts.

Salvador-Amores, A. (2019). Anthropological Analysis of Itneg Textiles. In Anthropological analysis, mathematical symmetry and technical characterization of Cordillera Textiles. Corditex Research Report, UP Baguio 2016-2019

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