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Binakol (Kusikus/Alipugpug) (b)

LOCAL NAME:

Binakol (Kusikus/Alipugpug) (b)

ENGLISH NAME:

Whirlpool/Whirlwind design

DESCRIPTION:

Abra, Tinguian, Itneg, Ilocos, & Ilocano: Binakol (Kusikus or Alipugpug)
A three-paneled woven textile featuring the binakol whirlpool/whirlwind motifs with white stripes woven after each row of binakol motifs

COMMONLY USED BY/IN:

Abra, Tinguian, Itneg, Ilocos, Ilocano

MATERIAL COMPOSITION:

Cotton threads, Natural dye

ITEM CONSTRUCTION:

Double-toned basket weave, Embroidery, Stitching, Dyeing

DIMENSIONS:

Length
228 cm

Width
163 cm

ACQUISITION YEAR:

2021

RESEARCH DATA:

This blanket features the binakol or binakul textile design, commonly woven in Abra and Ilocos. BinakoI can mean “made spherical” (Pastor-Roces, 1991, p.77) or “twill,” describing the shape and appearance of the motif or design, but it can also refer to a type of Ilocano inabel textile. Although binakol textiles are created using the plain weave technique, they stand out among plain woven textiles due to the intricate techniques used and the distinctiveness of the produced textile itself. Weaving the binakol requires specific techniques using two-colored weft yarns that are typically black and white, green and white, blue and white, and sometimes red and white (Respicio, 2015). The geometric patterns created have an illusionary effect and are often seen as psychedelic optical illusions. These designs are intentionally woven to confuse or repel and distract evil spirits (Salvador-Amores, 2019).

The specific design of this textile in the collection is composed of multiple whirlpool/whirlwind motifs, locally known as kusikus/alipugpug. Kusikus or alipugpug has references to the wind god who needs appeasing from the Itneg. Textiles with this design are seen on blankets and shawls, and are used as a form of protection when worn or hung (Respicio, 2014). Furthermore, frog motifs, called sinan-tokak, were embroidered near the textile borders. The textile borders were hand-stitched with red threads, while the panels were joined by red and white simple stitches.

REFERENCES:

Pastor-Roces, M. (1991). Sinaunang habi: Philippine ancestral weave. Manila: Nikki Books.

Respicio, N. A. (2014). The design techniques. In Journey of a thousand shuttles: The Philippine Weave (pp. 70-73). The National Commission for Culture and the Arts.

Respicio, N. A. (2015). Design techniques and weaving centers. In Inabel: Philippine textile from the Ilocos Region, 48-143. Artpostasia.

Salvador-Amores, A. (2019). Anthropological Analysis of Itneg Textiles. In Anthropological analysis, mathematical symmetry and technical characterization of Cordillera Textiles. Corditex Research Report, UP Baguio 2016-2019.

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