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Binakol (Kusikus/Alipugpug) (a)

LOCAL NAME:

Binakol (Kusikus/Alipugpug) (a)

ENGLISH NAME:

Whirlpool/Whirlwind design

DESCRIPTION:

Abra, Tinguian, Itneg, Ilocos, & Ilocano: Binakol (Kusikus/Alipugpug)
A three-paneled binakol blanket in colors indigo and white with red plaid patterns running along its length and width

COMMONLY USED BY/IN:

Abra, Tinguian, Itneg, Ilocos, Ilocano

MATERIAL COMPOSITION:

Cotton threads, Natural dye

ITEM CONSTRUCTION:

Double-toned basket weave, Embroidery, Stitching, Dyeing

DIMENSIONS:

Length
197 cm

Width
115.7 cm

ACQUISITION YEAR:

2021

RESEARCH DATA:

This textile from the collection features repeating patterns of binakol or binakul weaves throughout the cloth. The term binakol may both refer to a spherical patterned cloth (Pastor-Roces, 1991) and a variant of the inabel of Ilocanos that means “twill”. It is done using the plain weave technique with warp and weft yarns colored in negative and positive hues. The interlocking of the warp and weft produces a mesmerizing pattern of graduated rectangles that emanate from a center and appear like an optical illusion that throb when seen by the viewer (Respicio, 2014). This pattern is said to resemble whirlwinds or whirlpools meant to ward off and confuse evil spirits because of its dizzying effect (Salvador-Amores, 2019). It is also known as the kusikus or alipugpug which has references to the wind god, who needs appeasing from the Itneg. The binakol design are also a shared design to Itneg’s neighboring Ilocano weavers. Similar to other Abra textiles, the panels of this blanket is joined by a sinan-ramay or finger-like embroidery in white color. The borders are also embroidered using the same design to secure its edges.

REFERENCES:

Pastor-Roces, M. (1991). Sinaunang habi: Philippine ancestral weave. Nikki Books.


Respicio, N. A. (2014). The design techniques. In Journey of a thousand shuttles: The Philippine Weave (pp. 70-73). The National Commission for Culture and the Arts.


Salvador-Amores, A. (2019). Anthropological Analysis of Itneg Textiles. In Anthropological analysis, mathematical symmetry and technical characterization of Cordillera Textiles. Corditex Research Report, UP Baguio 2016-2019.

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